A Journey to the Wild Beauty of Okonjima Nature Reserve

A Journey to the Wild Beauty

of Okonjima Nature Reserve

“At Okonjima, conservation, heritage and luxury converge in perfect harmony.”

Text   Kirsty Watermeyer   |   Photographs  Kirsty Watermeyer

From the Autumn 2025 issue

In Namibia’s central highlands lies the Okonjima Nature Reserve, a haven of untouched beauty. Spanning 22,000 hectares of pristine bushveld, this extraordinary reserve offers an immersive escape into nature. Just a short drive from Windhoek, Okonjima is celebrated not only for its breathtaking landscapes but also for its pioneering work in leopard conservation, an endeavour that draws wildlife enthusiasts from around the world.

Among Okonjima’s collection of lodges, we stayed at Plains Camp, an exclusive yet expansive retreat. With its spacious rooms and generous facilities, the camp comfortably accommodates a good number of guests without ever feeling crowded. The welcoming staff and exceptional cuisine added to the sense of comfort, creating an atmosphere of understated luxury. What we were about to uncover was a truly one-of-a-kind experience, set within one of Namibia’s most remarkable wildlife sanctuaries.

FROM CATTLE TO COMFORT, CUISINE AND WILDLIFE

Okonjima’s story began in 1986, when the Hanssen family, once passionate cattle farmers, found themselves grappling with rising livestock losses to predators. As Namibia’s growing appeal as a tourism destination took hold, the Hanssens made a transformative decision to turn their farm into a game reserve. This led to the creation of the now world-renowned AfriCat Foundation, a pioneering initiative that marked the beginning of a conservation legacy that continues to flourish today.

Plains Camp, an integral part of this legacy, draws deep inspiration from the Hanssens’ cattle-farming roots. The design of the camp seamlessly blends elements of history and heritage, reflecting the spirit of Okonjima’s origins while offering the luxury and comfort of a modern safari experience. The spacious rooms are thoughtfully appointed, each featuring a private veranda that invites guests to watch wildlife meander by. Inside, the rooms are equipped with contemporary amenities, including a truly indulgent shower and a dedicated vanity area with a mirror, seat and plugs, perfect for glamming up after a day in the wild.

The true heart of Plains Camp, however, is The Barn, the camp’s central gathering place where all meals are served. It is a cosy yet vibrant hub of activity, offering a variety of seating areas spread across different levels. Whether you are curling up with a good book in a quiet corner, mingling with fellow travellers around a crackling bonfire under the stars, or helping yourself to excellent coffee throughout the day, The Barn is the perfect spot to unwind and connect. After a day of exploration, the sparkling swimming pool offers a refreshing respite, with breathtaking views of the surrounding bush.

The culinary experience at The Barn is nothing short of exceptional. Each meal is a celebration of local ingredients, expertly crafted into unforgettable dishes. From the tangy beetroot with ginger and feta truffles to the indulgent, velvety homemade chocolate ice cream (which may just be the best you’ve ever tasted), dining here becomes an experience all its own. The food is a beautiful reflection of the land – fresh, flavourful and deeply connected to the spirit of Namibia.

Another highlight of dining at The Barn is the ever-changing wildlife backdrop. Whether it is a family of warthogs lounging in the mud, jackals traversing the landscape or masked weavers busily crafting their nests, there is always something to look out for. And then, there is the sunset, an awe-inspiring spectacle that turns the sky into a canvas of vibrant oranges, pinks and dusky purples, creating the perfect ending to an unforgettable meal.

One evening as we dined and watched an unforgettable sunset, a group of avid travellers, who had journeyed to every corner of the globe, proclaimed that Japan had been their favourite destination for years. But now, after visiting Namibia and Okonjima, this has become their new top spot. The beauty, tranquillity and profound connection to nature were so palpable that it was impossible not to feel the same.

A SAFARI FOR THE SOUL

At the heart of Okonjima Nature Reserve lies its world-renowned leopard conservation programme. For over two decades, the reserve has been home to one of Africa’s longest-running leopard monitoring projects. This is a place where visitors are invited to witness the mystery and majesty of one of the world’s most elusive and powerful predators, thanks to the reserve’s innovative research and the ongoing efforts of the AfriCat Foundation.

Not all of Okonjima’s leopards are collared, but those that are wear satellite collars, which give the guides a general idea of the vicinity the leopards might be in, though not their exact location. Tracking these elusive creatures requires a combination of the guides’ expert knowledge of the land, insights into the leopards’ movements and, of course, a bit of luck.

A unique feature of Okonjima is that, over the years, the leopards have become somewhat accustomed to the presence of vehicles, allowing for rare opportunities to observe them in their natural habitat up close. If, like me, you choose to do leopard tracking as your activity of choice, you are likely to come away with an unforgettable experience and an intimate understanding of these stunning and stealthy creatures. You might even find yourself being able to identify them by their name, size or markings.

The guides at Okonjima are exceptional, sharing their profound knowledge of the land and its wildlife at every turn. Whether you are tracking a leopard, watching a chameleon elegantly cross your path or observing a Swallow-tailed Bee-eater revelling in the abundance of butterflies after the rains, each moment offers a unique opportunity to connect with the natural world in a meaningful way. Nature here unfolds with ease, and you cannot help but feel deeply immersed in it.

The land itself is spectacular, made even more striking by the red rocks that lie beneath the green shrubbery, creating a dramatic contrast. The reserve, with its mixture of tree-and-shrub savannah, riverbeds and the iconic Omboroko Mountains in the distance, is a haven for wildlife. Here you can spot anything from the rare and elusive pangolin, brown hyena and both the plains and mountain zebra to rhinos and a vibrant birdlife.

Okonjima is not just a destination; it is an experience that connects you to the very soul of Namibia’s wilderness, leaving a lasting imprint long after you have left. At Okonjima, conservation, heritage and luxury converge in perfect harmony. It is a place where the extraordinary becomes the ordinary, filled with too many unforgettable moments to name. Here, time slows down, and the spirit of Namibia, with its wild beauty and conservation legacy, becomes a part of you. I, for one, cannot wait to return and would wholeheartedly recommend a visit to Okonjima to my nearest and dearest. TN

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