A whale of a day

A whale of a day

Discovering wonders along the Atlantic coast

Text   Kirsty Watermeyer   |   Photographs  Duncan Irvine

From the ITB 2025 issue

The water was like glass – clear, calm and serene – as we set off from the Walvis Bay waterfront aboard the Olin with Mola Mola Safaris. The air was thick with anticipation. While we knew we would encounter the usual array of marine life, our hopes were set on something more elusive: the chance to witness majestic whales from up close.

Whale sightings in Walvis Bay and along the Namibian coast are becoming more frequent as populations slowly recover from the near destruction they faced during the peak of whaling in the 19th century. Walvis Bay, once known as the “Bay of Whales” over 250 years ago, saw these magnificent creatures nearly driven to extinction. Today, however, whale species are protected by Namibian law within its waters. After more than seven decades of absence, whales were first spotted again 50 kilometres off the coast, but in 2021, a remarkable turning point came – whales began to return to Walvis Bay itself.

While several species of whales can be found in Namibian waters, the Southern Right and Humpback whales are the most commonly seen. Both species are currently listed as endangered, making the opportunity to witness them all the more special. Humpback whales can weigh between 35 and 45 tonnes and are known for having the longest flippers of any whale species.

SETTING SAIL

We cruise out of the harbour with expert skipper Wian Bornman and his right- hand man, Sami Ulami. The two are a delight – always ready with a joke or a helping hand. Wian’s deep knowledge of the sea turns even the quiet moments into something full of intrigue. At one point, he turns to me and says, “It’s not actually the prime time for whale sightings; they would normally have already migrated to colder waters after breeding. But for the last two weeks, they’ve been spending time off the coast of Namibia, and I have a feeling that today we’re going to be lucky.” It is such a perfect day that seeing whales would be the quintessential “cherry on top”.

It is a short and smooth journey through the harbour and along the peninsula, where we are joined on board by seals, pelicans and seagulls. Wian and Sami seem to know most of the marine life willing to venture so close by name. Wian regales us with fascinating stories about each species, sharing fun facts like how pelicans have a wingspan of over three metres, or that Cape fur seals get their name from their thick fur, which is the fifth thickest fur on Earth.

IN THE WAKE OF THE WHALES

Once we venture out to sea, the waves take on a much greater intensity than along the peninsula. As the spray lightly salts our faces, our eyes remain fixed on the horizon, eagerly searching for any sign of a whale’s blow. Our hearts race, cameras are ready, and the excitement in the air is palpable. We watch in silence, hoping, when suddenly Sami shouts.

“There! Whales!” He points to a patch of water that, at first glance, looks no different from the waves around it. We all focus intently on the spot, and then – almost magically – the dorsal fin of a massive Humpback whale breaks the surface, and our hopes are realised. The boat erupts in cheers, but now the pressure is on. Everyone wants a perfect shot of this majestic creature, knowing full well it could vanish into the vast ocean at any moment. Sami, just as eager as we are, scans the waters, trying to predict where the whale will surface next. When he spots it, he calls out excitedly, and as the whale dives again, he turns to us and asks with a grin, “Did you get it? Tell me you got that!”

The frantic scramble for the perfect picture quickly fades, and a profound calm settles over our boat. What had been a moment of anticipation and excitement transforms into something far more meaningful. We are no longer focused on capturing the perfect shot; instead, we are fully present in the experience. Around us is a breeding pod of humpback whales – mothers and babies, so many of them. The sight fills us with a sense of peace, and we drift silently in the water, engines off, careful not to disturb the whales. What began as eager anticipation, then shifted to pure excitement, has now deepened into a quiet appreciation and solemn awe that envelops us all.

Our skipper, Wian, is highly mindful of not disturbing the whales. He keeps a careful watch on how we interact with them, ensuring that we do not get too close and that the engines are always off when they are nearby. The whales move with astonishing grace and speed, and giant ripples on the water reveal the direction in which each whale is travelling.

FROM GIANTS OF THE SEA TO A FEAST OF KINGS

There is something profoundly affecting about being with the whales. It feels as though their deep, gentle wisdom has somehow seeped into our beings, leaving us calmer, kinder and even a little wiser. It is hard to do anything but reflect as we begin to depart from this extraordinary experience. After a short ride back along the peninsula, our boat lands on the beach, where a feast awaits us. We disembark in near silence, still wrapped in the quiet reverence of the moment. But once we set foot on land, an eruption of joy bubbles to the surface, and our giddy happiness is impossible to contain. In an instant, we are no longer strangers. We are all friends, sharing laughter and warmth with people who, just a short while ago, were unfamiliar faces.

We are about to enter a new chapter of our day; one I would call “The Feast of Kings and Queens”. Awaiting us on the beach is a beach braai fit for royalty. We are greeted by fresh oysters and sparkling wine, followed by succulent Namibian beef fillets straight off the fire, as well as tender, freshly grilled crayfish. There is also warm, buttery garlic bread and a selection of scrumptious salads to complete the spread. We settle in to enjoy a delicious meal, sharing stories and laughter as we continue to be pampered by the charming Mola Mola Safaris duo of Pieter and Bianca Burger who, with a smile, assure us they are not related and who go out of their way to keep the atmosphere light, joyful and full of warmth.

After we had eaten our fill and then some more as we savoured perfect coffees alongside an extensive dessert platter, our skipper returned to shore to collect us for one final cruise along the peninsula. Along the way, he continued to share fascinating facts about marine life, mixed with jokes that landed perfectly every time. Our group of intrepid adventurers, hailing from all corners of the globe, did not for a moment lose that giddy happiness. Even as we disembarked the boat, our smiles were impossible to contain. It had been an incredible day in what is truly the jewel of the Namibian coast. TN
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