Carved from rock

Carved from rock

The place where the bones of the earth stretch across the land

Rocks are silent keepers of ancient secrets, bearing witness to Earth’s movements, the collisions that shaped landscapes and the forces that continue to sculpt the world we marvel at today. Among the most captivating of these landscapes is the northwest of Namibia, where the rocks do more than just catch the eye with their striking hues and dramatic formations. These rocks, positioned with such eloquence to form mountains and valleys, are also some of the oldest on the planet. If these rocks could speak, they would have many stories to tell.

Kirsty Watermeyer discovers the ancient tales of rugged places while travelling through Damaraland.

From the Autumn 2025 issue

As we journeyed deeper into Damaraland, the terrain grew more rugged. The tar roads gave way to gravel, and the flat landscape transformed into dramatic mountains. This is a land that has been sculpted by time itself, where Earth’s bones stretch across the horizon in rugged beauty.

AN ORIGIN STORY WRITTEN IN STONE

Over billions of years, this land has been shaped by dramatic geological forces which laid the foundation for Namibia’s rugged landscapes. Around 550 million years ago, the clash of tectonic plates led to the formation of the towering Damara Mountains. Later, vast lava flows from the Etendeka volcanic activity spread across the land, leaving behind thick layers of rock. This volcanic eruption was part of the slow, gradual breakup of Gondwana, the ancient supercontinent that once connected much of southern Africa, South America and other regions of the southern hemisphere.

The region has witnessed tectonic shifts, volcanic eruptions and the slow, relentless passage of time. As the supercontinent Gondwana slowly began to split, new forces shaped the land, with volcanic eruptions sending vast rivers of molten rock cascading across the terrain. The Etendeka volcanic activity, some 132 million years ago, was one such eruption. Lava flowed freely, spreading over vast stretches of land, leaving behind the rugged, flat-topped mountains we see today.

The Etendeka Plateau, with its expansive volcanic rocks, is striking. Here, the table-topped mountains are the defining feature of this awe-inspiring region. The word “Etendeka” is derived from the Himba people and translates to “place of flat-topped mountains”, while the Herero people use a similar word to describe when things are layered on top of each other – another appropriate description for this land.

This is the region where these ancient forces are on full display. Stretching over 78,000 square kilometres, the Etendeka Plateau lies like an open book, its pages written in volcanic rock. The landscape here is as haunting as it is beautiful. Table-topped mountains rise from the desert like sentinels, their jagged edges softened by the passage of time. Between them, valleys and plains stretch out, holding secrets from deep within Earth’s crust.

WHAT THE LAND REVEALS TODAY

The rocks of Etendeka are not just ancient; they are timeless. Formed from volcanic eruptions, the basalts here contain minerals that shimmer with age. Amethyst geodes, rich in colour and history, lie hidden in the dark rock, waiting to be discovered. The vast, basaltic lava flows, which make up 80% of the plateau’s geological composition, are interrupted only by layers of quartz formed over countless millennia.

I found myself hanging over the side of the open-air game viewing vehicle to have a closer look at this artwork of rocks – each one unique and intriguing. This patchwork of geological wonder is nothing short of spectacular.

Driving or walking here is punctuated with countless stops to bend over and take a closer look at something magical, made even more spectacular with how the colours shift constantly during the day (these are colour-changing rocks, I am sure of it!). What is more, as you walk across this land, you feel as if suspended in time – a moment where the past and present seem to merge, and where you become a witness to the passage of time. This deeply soulful moment, where the land seems to whisper the secrets of its origins, is a rare glimpse into the ancient soul of Earth itself.

EARTH BENEATH YOUR FEET

Our destination was Etendeka Mountain Camp, a true wilderness haven for those seeking an authentic, raw experience. One of the main attractions here is their hiking experiences, set against the dramatic backdrop of the Grootberg Massif. The trails offer a thrilling, unique adventure through one of Namibia’s most remote and untouched landscapes. Led by a knowledgeable and passionate guide, you will gain a deeper understanding of the area’s geological richness and vibrant natural history as they share fascinating anecdotes and insights. After exploring this stunning terrain, you return to find your bed dressed in linen awaiting you and, better yet, a chef ready to serve a hot, hearty meal. As night falls, you sleep beneath a blanket of stars in open- air structures designed to maximise the breathtaking views. Surrounded only by the sights and sounds of nature, you will experience a form of luxury finely tuned to the rhythm of the wild.

We also embarked on the guided morning nature walk with walking sticks in hand, setting off from the main lodge after breakfast. The area’s geology is nothing short of remarkable, the plains scattered with ancient, exquisite crystals and agate, each telling its own story from past millennia.

This is a land of timeless beauty, where horizons are works of art, where stones move you and where you find yourself taking a deep breath, because here, there truly is room to breathe. TN

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