Desert Bliss Ondili Namib Outpost

DESERT BLISS

Ondili Namib Outpost

From the Autumn 2024 issue

To explore is to feel alive. To travel is to rekindle our enthusiasm for life. The further we venture into nature, the more profoundly we recharge and replenish ourselves.

This is true of our trip to the Namib Desert, a primordial swathe of land deeply connected with sacred energies. At the foot of a mountain, situated in a valley so ethereal it seems as if you have stepped onto another planet, we stop to visit the newly revamped Namib Outpost. It overlooks a plain that stretches to the red dunes of Sossusvlei on one side and on the other to the Naukluft Mountains, which are fascinating with their ancient geological history.

Built with rocks from the mountain on which it perches, the lodge’s exterior is simple and effortlessly blends into the horizon. But this changes as you enter: the opulent decor is a composition of African royalty, contemporary and a touch of yesteryear’s travellers. It is a rich portrayal, it is nature wearing powerful portraits.

The feast for the eyes, provided by the interior decoration, is only diverted by the views. So vast are the vistas to the horizon that complete relaxation will take hold of you without you even realising it. The silence leaves an impression, the feeling is one of connection. Breathe in the universe.

Arriving after a stretch on gravel roads, we are dusty and hot, but our discomfort quickly dissolves as we are welcomed by the Namib Outpost tagline welcome home, and are handed chilled ice tea and even chillier face cloths to refresh ourselves. The tagline, which we will hear repeatedly during our stay, is so appropriate. We do feel at home, despite the fact that this is an extremely luxurious venue in the midst of Namibia’s unspoilt desert beauty.

Beautifully appointed, each room boasts a unique layout. A private deck awaits behind beautiful heavy wooden doors, which I am told are from Morocco. They are reminiscent of the royal doors which were used across ancient Africa for sacred spaces. At Namib Outpost you open a brass-studded door and find an uninterrupted panorama behind your natural stone privacy wall on your deck. Sun loungers on the deck beckon you to sprawl and take in the vistas. Or perhaps cool off under your outdoor shower?

Each private deck also boasts an outdoor bed which will be made up for you if you wish to sleep under the Namib night sky. The rooms are decorated individually and come with large beds, along with private patios and outdoor as well as indoor seating options for you to recline and enjoy the views that change in front of your eyes as the sun moves and illuminates the valley from different angles.

The Assistant Manager at Namib Outpost, Salome Johannes, says the scenery is her favourite. “It’s transformative. You connect with yourself the moment you come here. Maybe it’s the energy from the mountains, but it’s soulful, it’s peaceful.”

Barman Hendrik Shikongo says that for him, it is the views. He is quite right. Whether he is pouring and mixing at the restaurant bar, the cigar bar or at the panoramic sundowner bar atop the mountain behind the lodge: the views are exceptional. The mountain top bar is a daily sundowner activity available to all guests. A short hike along a paved path takes you to a deck where you can sit back and enjoy watching the sun drop below the horizon in spectacular fashion. This is another thing you can do in opulent style, as Hendrik whips up an exotic gin and tonic for you, or a unique desert sundowner cocktail while you nibble on a platter of tasty snacks. It is one of many activities available at Namib Outpost. There are day visits to the legendary Sossusvlei, of course, and more.

Views surround you everywhere, whether in your rooms or while dining on tasty and varied meals on the al fresco terrace. The options are manifold: you can also take in the views from one of the many sun loungers, couches or the relaxation pods next to one of the two main pools. Better yet, why not try a massage infused with views for days. The wellness centre is another place of pristine perspective. Perhaps only rivalled by the magical touch of Dinah Araes, the in-house masseuse. In her nineteen years in the profession she has adopted unique treatments such as the calabash massage with different types of calabashes. She explains that they give her a greater range of movements for increased relaxation. After her massage you will feel a dreamlike calm.

In fact, dreamlike calm will characterise your visit to Namib Outpost. It is a retreat that offers an encounter with the desert from a raised vantage point. We are still surprised, however, at how down-to- earth this lofty lodge is. Geographically elevated, elite furnishings, but with an incredible sense of authenticity and relaxedness. My family, including my young child, was welcomed with open arms. The restaurant had a high-chair for toddlers and the kitchen staff cooked special menus just for him. In our room a camp cot was made up with fine linen. Salome says, “We have tried to create an atmosphere which makes our guests feel at home. We treat our guests as if they were our family.” She recounts that when Namib Outpost reopened in April 2023, their very first guests commented on the feeling of being treated like family. Much of the best parts of the lodge were built during the time of the pandemic under the supervision of the delightful maintenance man, Boetie Mosimane.

The ethos of homeliness lends itself to the deeper connections you make on a visit to this home away from home in a supernatural and prehistoric setting. It is desert bliss. TN

Visit the website for more information: www.ondili.com

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