And then there is Kwessi Dunes Lodge, which is like stepping into a bygone safari era where your every whim is catered for, even the ones you did not know you had. Some lodges boast their special features for all to see, but this one blends into the horizon and keeps its treasures hidden, for you to find. It is beautiful, and in every corner awaits another gem to uncover. The well-appointed rooms are spacious, offering different comfortable seating options. The patio area alone has a choice between a bench piled with pillows for comfortable lounging, or rocking chairs for daydreaming as you sway your worries away.

Worthy of its own chapter in acclaim is the outside bed for sleeping under the constellations and watching the celestial theatre show above. Having done this many times and in many ways, sleeping under the stars in the desert is one of my favourite things to do. What can often take away from the experience is your exposure to the elements as the desert winds of the evening increase in strength. But here your outside bed has its own four-walled room, which not only protects you from the elements but also directs your focus towards the premier spectacle, which at night, is up.

Another highlight was how much my visit to Kwessi taught me about the subtleties of the desert. On a desert walk with an expert Khoisan tracker, Frankie, we learnt more about desert life than we could ever imagine. We followed tracks, listened to traditional Khoisan stories, and became amateur desert boffins through this enlightening experience.

This was a family trip, meaning my two-year-old son had come along and he was welcomed as part of the family by the staff. Let alone my enjoyment; this could easily be called my son’s best holiday ever. He spent his days racing along dune belts, following beetles, marvelling at desert life and having a feast. In fact, I would be remiss if I did not mention the food. It was spectacular, and besides the tasty three courses that the adults enjoyed, every effort was made to cater to the weird and wonderful palate of a toddler. This meant that one night he dined on French fries paired with spaghetti bolognese while the rest of us savoured the tenderest gemsbok fillets.

Another example of the extra effort by the staff was when we enjoyed one of the many activities at Kwessi. While doing a sunset drive with the delightful Dawid, we found a sundowner table specially decorated for my son, with his name written in sand along with some toys and his favourite drink – apple juice.

This sundowner drive with Dawid also heralds what has become one of my most special desert experiences to date. As we came over a dune in the late afternoon, we encountered a den of bat-eared foxes, fast asleep in a fairy circle. They were surprised by our presence, but they did not run away. After a short inspection, they concluded that we were friendly and proceeded to playfully chase each other before flopping back down into curled-up little balls in the sandy sphere.

If you did not know, bat-eared foxes are small, primarily nocturnal foxes with comically big ears that help them regulate their body temperature and hear sounds at incredible distances. These insect-loving foxes can hear beetle larvae hatching from dung balls. Also, they are monogamous, and the dads are as involved as the moms in raising the family. There is a lot to love about the bat-eared fox.

Like with the bat-eared fox, it is easy to fall in love with Kwessi Dunes Lodge. Located in the NamibRand Nature Reserve, this beautiful corner of Namibia is a vast desert wilderness of almost 200,000 hectares defined by red dunes, fairy circles and surrounding rocky mountains. You will want to take plenty of photographs, it is simply so beautiful, but no photograph does this place justice. Nothing will prepare you for the radiance you see here. In fact, the landscape will stop you in your tracks. Of course it is quintessential Namibia, but it is also humbling, stirring and striking.

Visiting the NamibRand Nature Reserve is like stepping into a daydream or fantasy land. Here you can expect to be lost in reverie. Where you will not be lost, however, is at Kwessi Dunes Lodge, who will outdo themselves to accommodate you. From the arrangements made to replace our burst tyre to the farewell gift handed to my son by Lilian, the lodge manager, it seems their purpose is to help you ground yourself in these illusionary surroundings. TN