I will start in the far northeast which is part of Namibia only because of the crazy way in which the colonial powers cut up the continent. That decision worked out well for Namibia. As a result, the water-rich Zambezi Region with its rivers, lush vegetation, enormous trees, great birding and fishing adds a wonderful dimension to the rest of the country’s dramatic landscapes. Zambezi also provides a perfect introduction to Namibia’s community involvement in tourism and conservation.

The 2-hour flight from Eros Airport in Windhoek takes us to Katima Mulilo where the 4×4 is ready and the adventure begins. Our flight will land early in the morning and we immediately board a small aircraft. No time to waste. We may catch the Carmine Bee-eaters’ return to nest in the riverbanks, or hundreds of elephants crossing the river from Angola to Namibia on their way to Botswana. Buffalo congregate on the flood plains and disappear into the woodland. Hippos move in and out of the river and Fish Eagles keep watch on tall trees. And in the hazy dust, as the sun sinks lower, a young man herds his cattle to a kraal. The locals get on with their lives while the animals follow ancient routes to water and grazing, unperturbed by borders and people. Believe me when I say that we can stay here for three weeks and not be bored. We haven’t even started on the flowers and the different natural occurrences in different seasons.

A little detour on our way west to see what the flat land of the Aawambo people has to offer with its tall Makalani Palm trees and traditional villages dotting the landscape. People, domestic animals and human activity. But again, there is no time to discover more because the days are ticking by.

We exit through the King Nehale Gate to a peaceful paradise and the rule of wild animals. Etosha. White dust, thorn trees and a grey blue sky. Noah’s Arc has just opened before our eyes. Gemsbok, springbok, blue wildebeest, zebra, kudu, elephant, black-faced impala, jackal, hyena, birds of prey, flamingos, little ones, brown ones – too many birds to name. Giraffes eat yellow blossoms off the grey thorn trees. Black rhinos drink at the waterhole in the dark sharing the space with elephant herds. Lions roar at night and in the day sometimes rest next to the road for all to see. Why do we have to leave so soon?

Westwards. Our destination is the Brandberg where ancient peoples left evidence of their presence on rocks, and where the rising sun still paints the mountain pink every morning. Along the Ugab’s dry riverbed and its open-air cathedral of vertical rock faces we go. Northwards to meet desert elephants in the shade of Ana trees in the Huab River valley.

Then turn south past villages where people live hard lives with wildlife which often destroys their meagre livelihoods. Take note that there are no fences. No barriers. Freedom to roam freely for man and beast. Look out for the otherworldly forms of trees, plants and shrubs on sand and rocky mountains.

There is a whole world to be discovered still but we have to turn back south again towards the ocean and the Skeleton Coast, famous for shipwrecks and hardships. The cool south- westerly wind tells the opposite to a traveller exiting heat and dust. Flat gravel plains and endless beaches soothe the soul. We pass the place where Portuguese seafarers planted their stone cross and thousands of seals congregate now. Inland again to scale Spitzkoppe and watch the full moon rise. From now on the nights get darker and the stars seem brighter as the moon rises one hour later every night.

Swakopmund on the coast is halfway between north and south and it is also the middle of this journey. A breather to stock up, cool down, stroll through shops and restaurants and enjoy the German colonial style architecture. If you are used to sand deserts, you may think that the Namib is the same as what you know about, but it isn’t. Ours is a living desert. Take a tour into the dunes with an expert guide if you need convincing.

This holiday town offers a myriad of fun things to do. But on this epic journey there will be no time for frivolities like skydiving and sandboarding, camel rides or ski-boat fishing. An exception may be a scenic flight along the Skeleton Coast all the way north to the Kunene River to enjoy a bird’s eye view of where we passed through those previous few days. Perhaps the only opportunity to see the Epupa Falls and villages of the nomadic Himba people who still adhere to their traditional lifestyles.

We continue from Swakop to Walvis Bay on a road wedged between the dunes and the sea. Two of only four towns along a coastline of almost two thousand kilometres. With the exception of these towns the entire coast is national park or conservation areas. No wonder that Namibia can boast to have 46 percent of its land protected in some form of conservation management.

Day trips to one of the famous Ramsar Sites – Sandwich Harbour – are among the options in Walvis Bay. The drive through towering dunes and along deserted beaches is a treat, as is the idea of thousands upon thousands of birds migrating there to breed. Not to mention the fish.

But there is no time for a detour.