Hiking in the Namib Naukluft

Hiking in the

Namib Naukluft

Text   Ena Visagie   |   Photographs    Le Roux van Schalkwyk, Ena Visagie & Elzanne McCulloch

From the Spring 2021 issue

In my opinion the road from the coast to the Naukluft Campsite of Namibia Wildlife Resorts (NWR) is among the most visually charming drives in Namibia. Coming from the mostly misty coast and making your way into the sunshine of the dry, dusty desert is experiencing the diversity of Namibian landscapes first-hand! As the view through the windshield changes, so does the adventure. Prepare to stop for more than a few photo opportunities because a big part of this route runs through Naukluft National Park.

As the road gets dustier, the cell phone signal becomes weaker – this is the case with most of the beautiful, more remote places in this country. It is an opportunity for both a physical and mental breakaway from everything else that usually forms part of our routine and everyday lives. The adventure begins!

At NWR’s Naukluft Campsite there are a ton of camping spots to choose from, each with its own braai area and within walking distance of the bathroom facilities. The best spots are next to the stream, where you can cool your feet during the day and hear the bullfrogs at night. Be aware, it can get quite chilly though.

There are three different hiking trails on the NWR grounds, two of them highly recommended, and the third – well you would first have to pass a health test conducted by a GP to ensure you’re fit enough – is an eight-day hike, and it’s challenging (not speaking from my own experience)!

The hike with the largest variety of sights and sounds is the Waterkloof trail. There are numerous pools along the way, many of which are fed by streams of fresh water. You can crouch down and drink right from the stream before filling up water bottles – those bottles are very important. The pools with water are a sort of holy grail when hiking in the African sun, to stay hydrated, yes, but also to take a dip, swim and cool down before proceeding. The hike is 17 km long. Keep your eyes peeled for the footprints painted in yellow, left by an invisible guide, and keep an ear out to intently listen to the surroundings throughout the hike. From various bird species, frog burps, the flow of crystal clear water and leaves catching a breeze to rocks and sand under your feet and baboons on high cliffs, it really is an audio journey.

There is a massive pool at about 1.7 km into the Waterkloof trail. If you are not too eager about hiking, I highly recommend you just make your way to that first pool. With a few drinks and snacks you can spend a leisurely hour or so in and next to the chilly body of fresh water. The pool itself and the surroundings are… au naturel. Please remember not to leave any bottles or packaging behind – take them back with you for proper disposal. Continuing on the 17 km hike: it is very rich in trees for quite a distance. Lots of shade courtesy of the tall trees, but steer clear of thorn bushes along your way. Around the latter section of the first half of the hike the tall trees disappear and the trail opens up onto a plateau dotted with camel thorn trees. From there it is a taxing ascent to the highest point of the route. When on top you are awarded with a 360-degree panoramic view of myriads of mountains, one rolling out of the other as far as the eye can see. A special place to spend a few minutes, take it all in and realise that no camera can do justice to this experience.

Onto the descent, a couple of last pools and a very long way down a massive (dry) riverbed.

This hike is challenging and shouldn’t be recommended to anyone with knee or ankle problems. But as much as it is exhausting, it is every bit as rewarding, every second of it. After the hike, however, the biggest reward, even before heading to the showers, is cracking an ice-cold Namibian Tafel Lager. TNN

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