We set our sights on the Epupa Falls, in remote northwestern Namibia, during the sweltering month of December. Departing from Windhoek, our bakkie was loaded to the brim, much to my husband’s frustration at having so much to pack for a mere 10-day journey. He made the executive decision to forgo mattresses to accommodate essentials: beer, gin and other chilled beverages. Fortunately, a slim hiking mattress managed to squeeze its way into the jam-packed vehicle. With everything secured, we finally embarked on our journey.

We made a detour through Wilhelmstal for some biltong padkos before hitting the gravel road. A brief stop in Omaruru allowed us to pay a visit to the in-laws, after which our adventure officially commenced. Continuing north, we made a pit stop at a bakery in Outjo – a must for any traveller passing through. Kaoko Bush Camp, our halfway point near Kamanjab, was reached early. After setting up camp we sought relief from the day’s heat with a refreshing swim and a cold beer beside the pool, where we were entertained by the antics of rock agamas (lizards) on the surrounding rocks. As we returned to our camp, ominous clouds gathered overhead. Despite the impending rain, we opted for a braaivleis dinner, relishing the cool evening air and catching glimpses of rainbows in the distance. The gentle patter of raindrops on our tent lulled us into a peaceful slumber.

The following morning I couldn’t resist teasing my husband about how thin our hiking mattress was, although aside from a few stiff muscles we had managed to have a good night’s sleep. After packing up camp we set off toward our primary destination. Along the way north, as we found ourselves skirting the western edge of Etosha National Park, a magnificent giraffe ambled into view, captivating us with its sheer size and grace. Passing through Opuwo we reached the end of the paved road. We had been warned about potentially treacherous water puddles left by recent rainfall in the area. While most would continue with caution, my husband’s excitement only grew. The landscape unfolded with unexpected lushness, reminiscent of Limpopo in South Africa. It was my inaugural visit to this corner of Namibia, and with its green hills Kaokoland in the Kunene Region surpassed all my expectations.

Setting up camp at our destination – Omarunga Lodge at Epupa Falls – proved to be a humbling experience, particularly for my husband: we erected our modest second- hand rooftop tent next to our neighbours’ impressive air- conditioned, two-bedroom rooftop setups, complete with solar-powered electricity. With a bit of ingenuity and the assistance of our makeshift “hammer”, a rock, we reinforced our tent with additional steel support and improvised a solution for extending our ladder, which was too short.

Despite its quirks, I found that our tent had character. It was perfect in its own way.

After the exertion of preparing our sleeping quarters we reclined in our camping chairs in the shade of the makalani palm trees along the swiftly flowing river. We spotted a water monitor climbing out of the water and walking along the river bank. Eager to explore, we made our way to the Epupa Falls, marvelling at the sheer volume of water cascading down between imposing cliffs. The sight of baobab trees nestled amidst the rushing streams added to the enchanting vista.

Climbing down toward a majestically big baobab we were awestruck by its immense size and age. We sat down among the rocks below and soaked up the panoramic view of the water masses coursing between Angola and Namibia, spotting dassies (rock hyrax) basking in the sun on the river’s large boulders. As we climbed back up, I caught sight of a lizard on a nearby rock, only to discover a snake moments later resting atop the very rock I had touched. Hastily retreating and alerting my husband, we watched in fascination as the snake seized a passing lizard for dinner, unperturbed by our presence.

After this unexpected encounter we continued our exploration and eventually made our way to dinner at the lodge’s restaurant. It was only later, with the benefit of hindsight, that we realised we had seen a black mamba. The momentous encounter added an extra layer of excitement to our already memorable day.

Our three days at Epupa Falls were idyllic, spent lounging by the pool, seeking shade under the makalani palms and exploring the tranquil pools above the falls. One evening we joined a sundowner drive onto a nearby mountain top, where we were treated to breathtaking vistas of the falls as the sun dipped below the horizon, casting a warm glow on the landscape. We found ourselves captivated, lingering for hours, mesmerised by the beauty before us.

As night fell, the air grew humid. Thankfully we had purchased a portable fan, which we ingeniously fastened to the top of our tent for some much-needed relief. Every now and then we would be serenaded by the makalani palm trees rustling overhead, their nuts cascading down in the breeze, adding to the enchantment of our nights beneath the Namibian sky. We made several camping stops on our journey back home, each offering its own unique charm. At Opuwo Country Lodge we enjoyed the luxury of an infinity pool and drank in the breathtaking vistas of the surrounding landscape. Then, at Oppi-Koppi in Kamanjab, an accommodation voucher entitled us to the blissful comfort of an air-conditioned room and a plush mattress, providing much-needed respite from our travels.

As we departed from Kamanjab the longing for home began to tug at our hearts, but we still had one final stop on our itinerary: camping at Sophienhof Lodge outside of Outjo. Nestled amidst green lawns, the campgrounds offered a serene setting. Relaxing in the shade of the trees, we savoured the tranquillity. An ostrich strolled across the grass and hornbills darted through the foliage in search of insects. A peaceful nap on the lawn was interrupted by the gentle presence of nyala grazing nearby, their graceful bodies adding to the natural beauty of the surroundings. While cooling off in the pool we watched antelope quench their thirst at a nearby waterhole – a reminder of the wild wonders around us.

Back home in Windhoek I reflected on our journey and realised that ultimately a honeymoon is about spending time with your beloved. Namibia’s enchanting destinations have given us a romantic and extraordinary adventure, filled with sights, sounds and wonders that will be etched into our memories forever. While camping in these stunning locations was an unforgettable experience, I cannot help but advise future travellers to prioritise comfort when packing, perhaps choosing a good mattress over an abundance of beer. TN