Living in the land of sand and freedom: Driving on empty

Living in the land of sand and freedom

Driving on empty

Text  Lee Tindall  |  Photographs  Lee Tindall

From the Spring 2021 issue

One of our favourite activities every year is the annual vulture tagging. We have been participating since 2016, at which point one child was two and the other five. The first time we joined this outing we hadn’t yet met everyone involved, but had made telephonic arrangements to meet the team at Sesriem. Of course, with small kids, we ended up running slightly late but eventually arrived and were told that the guys had gone ahead and we could probably catch up with them. We did manage to catch up just as the lead car (the one with the ladder and all the equipment) turned onto a private road, strictly closed to the public. The occupants of our car all gave a huge sigh of relief and the adrenaline rush ebbed away. We were the fourth vehicle in the convoy. Our relief and adrenaline break was short lived, however. Vehicle one stopped and a tall, lanky man unfolded himself from the car and stalked over to our vehicle. We realised he wasn’t sure who we were and assumed that we were tourists who had decided to tag along with them. After we had introduced ourselves it was official: We were part of the convoy and on our way!

The first attempt went smoothly by all accounts – as newbies we had no idea anyway. We simply knew we were with some of the greats of vulture tagging, some of them people who had seen me in my underwear at age 2 (it happens more often than I like that people I speak to tend to remember my lack of clothing and reluctance to wear any, my genuine hate of footwear and my white-blonde hair. Some of this may have changed.) A dear friend was with us. At that time we had not known each other for long – she was not a fan of two-legged small ones, and I wasn’t sure how we would all get on. But she had elements I enjoyed. Fortunately, our vulture tagging expedition cemented our relationship and was the first of many magical memories!

We watched as the pros unfolded a car mirror on an extendable pole and checked for action in the nest seven metres above. Once occupation of the nest was confirmed, the ladder was offloaded and a retriever sent up with a specially made bag (high tech stuff this, canvas cloth and leather handles) to protect the bird, the retriever and allow for climbing up and down the ladder safely. The birds being tagged are not yet able to fly, making it much easier. Once a bird was tagged, measured and recorded it was returned to its nest and our convoy continued on its way.

At some point we stopped for lunch. We had all been asked to bring our own and to make sure we had enough sustenance. Above all, do not forget the kids – who loved bananas while I was packing the snack bag at home, in a kitchen with many options, and then decided that they hated bananas while we were parked in the middle of nowhere, with nothing other than bananas available. Remember, fun! The lunch spot was chosen, many trees make for a lot of shade on hot days and this was perfect. There was some chatter as we all ate our bananas and sandwiches and then went to rest under the trees for a minute. I was watching folks sitting there, shaking their feet, wriggling their legs and gradually we all realised that this was caused by ticks! Tampans, to be precise. Of course, anyone who knows this feeling, knows it never leaves you again and you will forever feel this light irritating tingle on your skin and you will forever scratch.

Needless to say, this put an end to our casual, wild lunch. We had a few birds left to look for, which went smoothly and so well that we all forgot to keep track of time, or diesel.

At some point Murray realised that our diesel was below the empty mark. We were driving on the reserve tank. We asked how much longer this route was and how many more kilometres we had to go. There was some umming and ahhing, and not a lot of real info, which was not great. We knew that if we could make it to Sesriem we could refuel, have a cold one and an ice cream for the kids (both big and small).

The longest 30 minutes followed. We joked our way through it, kept looking at the gauge while pretending we weren’t. Driving on fumes (the car as well as its occupants), we pulled into Sesriem. The car was parked, beers were bought and ice creams were liberally handed out and smeared all over little faces. Our little ones don’t fully recall this day, but luckily they have us to remember it for them and to laugh about the beginning of things.

As time has moved, as we all have aged with each year that has come around, the understanding and enjoyment has changed. The team who does the tagging, some of my favourite humans, has spent years teaching the kids and us, as well as anyone willing to learn. With only a few months left before tagging for 2021 starts, excitement is already building! TNN

Facebook
Twitter
LinkedIn
Pinterest

Read full issue online