Maltahöhe – where the tar road ends

Text and photographs Ron Swilling

A kilometre of road runs through the centre of the small town of Maltahöhe that lies on the edge of the Swartrand escarpment, fringed by a few small shops and a petrol station, and towered over by an imposing Dutch Reformed Church.

For those in a rush, the road will become but a memory as it disappears in cloud of dust behind you after a few snippets of conversation or sips of Coke. But, like anything that is given time and attention, Maltahöhe provides a good stop off en route to the Namib and the arteries of gravel roads that extend into the desert.

Maltahöhe bar

The town was founded in 1899 by Henning von Burgsdorf, the governor of the Gibeon District in German South West Africa, and was named after his wife, Malta. ‘Malta’s heights’ served as a base for a small garrison of Schutztruppe (imperial colonial troops) and as a trading outpost for farmers in the area.

Various stories are told about the mysteries of Malta, from her ox wagon overturning on the road to her partiality for higher ground. She is said to have returned to Germany after her husband was shot by the bodyguard of renowned Nama chief, Hendrik Witbooi. In later years the town became a centre for the karakul trade. When the market collapsed and a series of droughts ravaged the land, many farmers moved north, leaving Maltahöhe – a sleepy gateway to the wonders of the west with a predominantly Nama population – behind.

A lone donkey or a donkey cart speeding to its destination might appear to be the town’s talisman as you approach. First stop when arriving from Mariental is the cemetery with its century-old Schutztruppe graves from the battles fought against Hendrik Witbooi in 1894 and the Nama rebellion of 1903–1907. Serenaded by birdsong, the graves lie peacefully between palm trees and greenery.

When the pan on Sandhof fills with water, usually in the first months of the year, the lilies bloom, creating a dazzling spectacle

Before heading on to the western verges, travellers are advised to fill up with fuel, use the ATM and stock up with fresh bread from the Pappot shop and bakery. Owned by Hendriette and Mannetjie Esterhuizen, who tend the cemetery, the colourful shop sells everything from chips, chops and cold drinks to children’s toys and engagement rings. Light meals can be bought from Woestyn Kombuis (Desert Kitchen) at the petrol station, where customers can scrawl their names on the walls and pin the position of their home cities onto the map.

The oldest country hotel in Namibia, the Maltahöhe Hotel was built in 1907. Owner, Arno Rahn and his wife Monika recently returned to Maltahöhe to run the hotel. Faded signs still advertise ‘lousy food and warm beer’, and a ‘No pee for free’ sign outside the hotel advises you not to just stop there to use the restrooms. Once inside, if the sign hasn’t scared you off, there are co-ordinates to lead you to the ablution facilities, an assortment of interesting photographs from yesteryear, old farm implements, and flags and stickers decorating the cosy bar area. And, thankfully, cold beer and substantial meals are served.

The hotel was once a hive of activity when farmers arrived to collect their post at the end of the week. Those days have passed but new attractions have gained popularity. Arno kindly tips the radio stations off when the lilies Crinum paludosum are in bloom – and offers reduced rates for this period. The floral celebration occurs after good summer rainfall on the nearby Sandhof farm, 40 kilometres from the town. When the pan fills with water, usually in the first months of the year, the lilies bloom, creating a dazzling spectacle, providing inspiration and ample photographic potential.

At the end of the tar and tucked to the side, the Ôa Hera Backpackers and Cultural Centre offers a touch of culture and a friendly stop for a light lunch outdoors in the shade. The mother-and-son team offers a small and charming oasis in the arid environment. The Ôa Hera art gallery houses a selection of African art – carved wood and stone sculptures – which Brian Padwick sources on his trips through Southern Africa, meeting artists and finding rare pieces not often seen on market shelves, as well as a selection of popular favourites. Remember to enquire about his new line of Cuban cigars!

Although the pronunciation of Maltahöhe varies, the majority of locals draw out the end, pronouncing it ‘Mataheeah’

Affordable accommodation is available for families in Ôa Hera’s four bedrooms (three with bunk beds), while campers can set up camp in the enclosed yard. Horselah waits at the front door for her nibbles in the morning and surprises campers in the evening, and several dogs offer protection and a homely atmosphere.

A recommended and thoroughly enjoyable activity that can be organised before your visit (and after school hours) is a performance by the Ama Buruxa choir group, which can be booked through Ôa Hera. It can be combined with Anne Gyselinck’s delicious lunches of hot vegetable soup, salad and springbok goulash. The group of underprivileged scholars sing Nama songs from their hearts, twirling and jiving in a lively and exuberant affirmation of life. Proceeds from the reasonably priced performance assist with school and examination fees. Although the pronunciation of Maltahöhe varies as often as the stories about the town’s name, the majority of locals draw out the end, pronouncing it ‘Mataheeah’.

The C19 is the well-used access route to Sossusvlei, NamibRand, Walvis Bay and Swakopmund, and down to Aus/Lüderitz and the Fish River Canyon. There is more here than meets the eye, so slow down when next in town, stop for a (‘warm’) beer, lunch and browse in the art gallery, and fill up with fuel before you tackle the gravel, take a walk down memory lane, or listen to the promising voices of youth celebrating their Nama culture.

This article appeared in the May’12 edition of FAMINGO Magazine.