
During the heat of summer, we made our way to Ondudu Safari Lodge, on the edge of the Erongo Mountains. Perched among towering granite boulders, the lodge’s cool, tented rooms each boast their own unique layout, cleverly tucked into the rocky terrain. Accessible by raised wooden walkways, the rooms invite you to simply unwind and soak in the positive energy radiating from the surrounding quartz-encrusted boulders. It is easy to see why one might be tempted to simply lounge in your room, basking in the tranquillity of the environment. But to truly connect with this extraordinary place, getting involved in the activities is where the magic happens.
Text Kirsty Watermeyer | Photographs Kirsty Watermeyer
From the Autumn 2025 issue
The land here is arid, almost forgotten by time, yet undeniably spectacular. The rocks, rich with minerals, shift in colour as the light changes, creating a landscape that feels alive. The wildlife, though elusive, is ever-present, quietly waiting to be discovered during a sunset drive or one of the many hiking excursions that weave through this unspoilt part of the world.
Part of the Erongo Mountain Nature Conservancy and the region’s namesake, the Erongo Mountains form a roughly circular massif, created by the collapse of a volcano into its magma chamber. Over millennia, the slow-cooled igneous rock has resisted erosion, resulting in the stunning, bouldered landscape. These rocks, created by ancient underground volcanoes millions of years ago, are like storytellers, each one bearing unique shapes and designs. Rocky outcrops offer shelter to the wildlife. While larger species like rhinos and leopards roam this land, the real thrill lies in spotting the smaller creatures – elusive and hard to find but appearing just often enough to allow our guide to share fascinating stories of their lives and their adaptations to the harsh, dry climate.
Here you will find a number of endemic Namibian species, including Hartmann’s mountain zebra, the Damara dik- dik and the black-faced impala. The region is also home to nine endemic bird species, along with rare creatures like the Angolan dwarf python and the elusive black mongoose – all of which are fully protected in this conservation area. I was fortunate enough to catch a glimpse of a black mongoose during our visit. It was quick and skittish, almost like a shadow darting through the underbrush. For a moment, it was more of an illusion than a real animal.
There were other standout moments with the smaller yet equally special species living here. For example, we encountered not one, but two leopard tortoises, perfectly camouflaged amidst the rocks. The leopard tortoise, with its strikingly patterned shell, is a true survivor, a relic from a bygone era and a master of quiet resilience. We witnessed this resilience firsthand when one of the tortoises, after misjudging a rocky descent, tumbled down a boulder face more than twenty times its own height. Miraculously, it landed on its feet, stood up without missing a beat, and continued its journey as though nothing had happened.
Then there were the Damara dik-diks with their Bambi-like faces, dominated by their prominent snouts and large, dark eyes rimmed with white markings. These tiny antelopes, named after the high-pitched sound they make when startled, are skittish creatures by nature. Their distinctive alarm call comes through their highly flexible snouts, which also function as an efficient cooling system, preventing them from overheating. This clever adaptation also allows them to survive with minimal water.
“Sometimes, the true essence of travel lies in the need to rest, unwind and connect with something unfamiliar and inspiring.”
Birdwatchers will be delighted by the endemic species found here such as Hartlaub’s francolin, the Damara rockrunner, White- tailed shrike and Monteiro’s hornbill. Rosy-faced lovebirds are plentiful, while other bird species like Rüppell’s parrot and Verreaux’s (black) and Booted eagles also call the area home.
The Erongo Mountains are among the oldest volcanic craters in the world, rising majestically with inaccessible gorges and towering rock formations. The best way to explore this land is on foot. We clambered over boulders on an early morning activity to reach Paula’s Cave, a national monument that houses beautiful rock paintings, believed to be over 2,000 years old. These historic artworks, displayed on the cave walls, were discovered by the archaeologist after whom the cave is named. Paula’s Cave is believed to have held significant spiritual meaning to the ancient Bushmen, who adorned its walls with many fascinating tales of life long ago.
There are many other activities to be enjoyed here, including various hikes that cater to different levels of fitness. Experienced guides are available to share insights into the region’s flora and fauna, or guests can choose from several self-guided walking trails. We also enjoyed a sunset drive around the reserve, after which we settled on top of a large boulder to watch the sun dip below the horizon. We watched the landscape transform, colours shifting dramatically across the sky. It was a moment of quiet awe, one that deepened our connection to this ancient land.
The lodge has twelve luxury tented rooms, each uniquely positioned and set against towering granite formations. Each tent is accessible via wooden walkways and stone steps, opening onto a spacious, shaded deck with breathtaking views. It is a magical place where the desert, mountains and bushveld ecosystems converge in perfect harmony.
Ondudu Safari Lodge exudes a quiet hospitality, much like what I imagine a butler in the corner would be like – almost invisible but appearing exactly then when you need something. Visiting this lodge felt like a reprieve for the soul. Beyond the healing energy of the rocks, the breathtaking beauty of the landscape and the profound silence, everything here works together as a tonic for the spirit. The unobtrusive yet always helpful nature of the staff made this visit feel like the ultimate form of relaxation – the kind we all crave during holidays and travel breaks.
Travelling calls to us for many reasons, whether to immerse ourselves in new cultures, witness the wonders of wildlife or simply escape the daily grind. Yet, sometimes, the true essence of travel lies in the need to rest, unwind and connect with something unfamiliar and inspiring. Ondudu Safari Lodge provides all of this: a sanctuary of relaxation, comfort and profound connection in a setting that evokes awe and wonder. TN
For more information about Ondudu Safari Lodge, visit: journeysnamibia.com