Reviving Kolmanskop

The Diamond of the Desert glistens again

Reviving Kolmanskop

Text   Charene Labuschagne   |   Photographs   Charene Labuschagne

From the Summer 2024/25 issue

The creak of near-century-old wood floors gives way, one careful foot in front of the other. By impulse, voices are brought to a whisper. A relentless wind sandblasts what is left of the windows as another grain of sand finds its way to the corner of an abandoned house, joining the dune that occupies an old living room. Between silent observation and the occasional outburst of awe, the sounds of these haunted, empty halls are only a whistle formed by the wind. Or is it a ghost?

Kolmanskop, the old diamond mining town on the outskirts of Lüderitz, needs little introduction. Between hosting flocks of tourists, and appearing in movies, documentaries and album covers, the ghost town’s reputation precedes it. Like diamonds that dim over time with daily wear can be polished back to brilliance, Kolmanskop has seen a renaissance. The photographic masterpiece and eerily historic complex may have plateaued in the years passed, but a brand new facet has brought back Kolmanskop’s glamour. Now she glistens again.

The old residence of August Stauch – the prospector under whom Zacharias Lewala found the first diamond – has been cosmetically renovated and now houses the Kolmanskop Boutique. Just down the lane, the old soda factory has been revived into an Ilford Galerie, one of only three worldwide. The allure of this desolate town between the dunes is engrained in the gradual decay of its buildings and how nature reclaims over time. In this spirit, the Kolmanskop Boutique and Ilford Galerie maintain a distinctly rustic feel. Renovations were limited to only the necessary, like replacing windows and repairing the roof. For the rest, chipped paint was left on the walls and the floorboards creak all the same so that even in a boutique and photo gallery, the essence of Kolmanskop shines through.

Ghost Town Tours, under the entrepreneurial and pioneering guidance of Cicely Burgess, earned the concession for Kolmanskop in 2022. The first order of business was renovating the casino, turnhalle, and museum to their former glory, including restoring the original paint decals on the walls. The old diamond room, closed for many years, has reopened and stocks Namibian diamonds mined in the Sperrgebiet. In red-velvet-lined display cases, the splintered sparkle of diamonds in the late morning sun will leave visitors starry-eyed. With an official GIA Diamond Origin Report, what better place to buy a Namibian diamond than at the birthplace of the diamond industry?

While the main building features a curio shop for those classic African souvenirs loved by many, the Kolmanskop Boutique is a curated collection of exclusively Namibian-crafted products. Leather bags, wallets, and shoes expertly manufactured by Leon Engelbrecht Design have pride of place on a decommissioned door-turned-table, some of which include gold embossed Kolmanskop Boutique customisation. Indigenous Namibian flora, including the iconic quiver and camelthorn trees, is showcased in Emssence’s hand-made loungewear, scarves, table linen, and body products. Crafted from sustainably sourced cotton and linen material, the timeless designs of .about clothing include men’s button-up shirts, easy ladies’ dresses and tailored trousers. From the collection of jewellery wizard Elze Eigelaar, some of the country’s most iconic birds are immortalised in sterling silver necklace pendants and other authentically Namibian pieces. The boutique is arguably the first of its kind in Namibia, focussed on shining a spotlight on locally crafted items that transcend the curio classification.

Commanding four large rooms, the Ilford Galerie showcases the very best Namibian landscape, wildlife, and Kolmanskop photography. Ilford is synonymous with professional photo paper as one of the oldest photographic brands in the industry. The photographic works of Alexander Heinrichs, Jandre Germishuizen, Michael Poliza and Wim van den Heever are exhibited at Kolmanskop and undoubtedly inspire awe in all who stroll through the space. Even in the Black and White room, which features emotive, high contrast, monochrome photography, the images truly bounce off the walls, a testament to the power of Ilford paper and Namibia’s photographic allure.

Beyond these new and improved visual and shopping spaces, Kolmanskop welcomes a new approach to touring the historic town. One-hour guided tours depart from the coffee shop daily at 9:30 and 11:00, but audio tours can be purchased and downloaded from the Voice Map app for the more leisurely and curious visitor. This modern approach to exploring Kolmanskop means that no tidbit of fascinating information goes missing in the excitement of a tour. However, it is still highly recommended that you remove your headphones and listen to the ghosts whistling now and again.

As a new era for Kolmanskop dawns, there has never been a better time to uncover the secrets of this weird and wonderful place. With Ghost Town Tours at the helm, there are plenty more special experiences on the horizon, making this surreal town in the desert a destination to return to time and time again. And as the sands of time fill every corner and find resting place on windowsills, exploring the weatherbeaten and forlorn ghost town beacons the question: how long till the desert claims back everything, and Kolmanskop becomes a fossil? TN

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