Sand, sea and seals: a coastal Safari

Sand, sea and seals

a coastal Safari

Sequins on the sea, sparkling in the sun while seals moan like disgruntled teenagers – whom, we all joke, could use a lesson in gratitude – what is there to complain about? It’s a perfect day; we’re seated beside crystal- clear waters, savouring crayfish braaied over an open flame on the beach, following a morning of water-based adventures. And we’re only halfway through our day of enjoyment. Kirsty Watermeyer goes on an unexpected safari along Namibia’s Atlantic Coast.

From the Spring 2024 issue

The morning began perfectly as we gathered at the Walvis Bay waterfront, preparing to board our sea vessel. As a guest of Mola Mola Safaris, I was about to embark on one of their top all-day adventures, where sea, sport, and sand converge to immerse guests in a world of untamed and wild beauty.

The weather was exceptional, with a gentle, warm breeze and clear blue skies setting the perfect tone for our day. Boarding our boat to cross the harbour, we were joined by a Cape fur seal, the first of many seal encounters to come. This cheerful creature eagerly boarded our vessel for an up-close biology lesson from our captain about the local seals, happily accepting a few fish in return. After satisfying his hunger, he bid us farewell, generously sharing his bounty with a friend who couldn’t quite master the art of boarding a moving boat.

A short trip brought us to Pelican Point, where we disembarked from our boat on the beach under the watchful eye of the famous Pelican Point lighthouse. Waiting for us was a coffee and tea station, alongside an enthusiastic team of kayakers ready to guide us through the next activity. Though the waters were calm, our kayaking adventure promised excitement as we shared the space with playful young seal pups. Curious and mischievous, their presence added a dynamic thrill to our outing. We had to firmly grip our oars as our playful companions attempted to snatch them away. Over and under our kayaks, the seals played, splashing and jumping with abandon, giving us a little wave and then returning under the waters. There was no telling what they would do next, and we were in their territory and vastly outnumbered, but they just came to play. Their playfulness served as a great reminder of the spirit of adventure and the importance of being open to possibilities.

 

When a large group of beach lounging seals decided to cool off in unison their collective dive into the ocean created a thrilling wake in the water. Despite the unpredictability of sharing the waters with these playful animals, the experience was safe enough for my two-year-old, securely strapped into a toddler life jacket, to join us. Whether seasoned kayakers or first-timers, everyone in our group agreed that kayaking with the seals was a highlight of our day.

After our thrilling kayaking adventure, our group reluctantly emerged from the water and was whisked away to a nearby spot where an extravagant beach braai awaited us. We were greeted with sparkling wine and oysters and quickly seated to indulge in a feast of fresh crayfish, beef fillet, exceptional salads, and freshly made garlic bread. Everyone eagerly dug in, some returning for seconds and thirds, yet miraculously leaving room for dessert plates of brownies and koeksisters paired with superb coffees. The attention to detail at the beach braai was impressive and included seashell and protea decorations in the makeshift beach bathrooms. Moreover, the wonderful staff at Mola Mola were happy to supervise the younger children playing at the water’s edge while their parents savoured the feast.

But the day wasn’t over yet, we were now set to embark on another rip-roaring fun portion of the day as we followed very specific trails through moving desert sands. Signs of the perils of diverting from the paths dotted our view, where disrupted sands tell the tales of trapped cars, embedded in quicksand-like portions of the beach or desert.

Our knowledgeable guide patiently answered our questions, which were plentiful within our group. We learned about where the jackals we spotted found freshwater, how wooden beacons were positioned in the days of ox-wagon travellers, and what gems and minerals create the different colours that dance across the dunes.

The real highlight, however, was the rollercoaster-like thrill of riding 4x4s over the dunes. As we climbed each massive mound of sand, nerves tingle and people gripped whatever they could find. But it was at the very peak, as the vehicle peered over the edge of the precipice, readying for the exhilarating descent, that adrenaline truly surged. Some managed their excitement with screams, others with laughter, and some by tightly closing their eyes. It is a thrill and each successful dune conquest is an achievement.

 

After a gripping ride, we stop on top of the dune named Kodak, for its picture- perfect views of Sandwich Harbour. Here we’ll regroup, marvel, and frolic in the softest sands, readying ourselves for round two of our desert rollercoaster experience. On the return trip, we know what to expect and cheer our guide on as he offers us the option of more daring routes. Enjoyment, laughter, and a hint of fright characterise our ride until we arrive on a private dune with a sprawling ocean view and the promise of a recent whale sighting. We are the fortunate few, here a refreshment table of drinks and snacks has been promptly prepared, and we will perch atop a dune and watch whales playing in the Atlantic Ocean. It’s been a perfect day, and these closing moments are no different.

After a short drive past the salt works, we make one last pit stop before the end of our journey. We find ourselves at the Walvis Bay lagoon, spending our final moments together, sharing highlights among newfound friends with a backdrop of pink flamingos.

The sun dips towards the horizon, casting a warm glow across the rippling waters. Our hearts are full, having surrendered to the call of the sea and embraced the allure of the desert sands. We have lavished in maritime adventures where we connected with the sea’s timeless allure, its bursts of excitement, and its tranquil stillness. We have voyaged to desert corners, where few have traversed, and listened to the whispers of the wind while absorbing breathtaking beauty.

Mola Mola Safaris have been perfecting Namibian sea-based adventures for years and are known for their generous helping of Namibian hospitality. Would I recommend the all-day adventure Kayak combo with beach braai with Mola Mola? Absolutely and wholeheartedly. TN

SANDWICH HARBOUR

Sandwich Harbour, located south of Walvis Bay, is a Ramsar-acclaimed wetland accessible only by 4×4 vehicles. Renowned for its striking dune-sea scenery and rich birdlife, this lagoon, once an oceanic bay, is now encircled by sand. Shifting sands and high tides can affect accessibility, so it’s highly recommended to visit Sandwich Harbour with a professional tour company like Mola Mola Safaris.

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