Serene and wide-open

Serene and

wide-open

Text   Kirsty Watermeyer   |   Photographs  Kirsty Watermeyer

From the ITB 2025 issue

Unfenced freedom found

Elephants playfully rolling in the mud on a scorching summer day – a huge herd, with several young ones of various ages. It is a sight of pure joy. I could watch them for hours, captivated by their carefree antics as they fling mud over their backs, the youngest sliding on its belly in the cool, soft earth, and the eager excitement palpable as they run to greet each other.

This delightful sight greeted us upon our arrival and again as we left Etosha Heights, a 60,000-hectare landscape just south of Etosha National Park. Yet, it is not just the elephants that make this place special; it is the way in which Etosha Heights has embraced a progressive conservation approach by leaving the fences between their private land and Etosha National Park open, allowing animals to roam freely across the land.

Having previously spoken to scientists studying animal movements in and around Etosha, I would later come to see firsthand what it means to this landscape and these animals. My first impression is that it is like Etosha, but without the crowds and cars, clambering for their turn to get the perfect shot. Here I sit in absolute serenity while elephants go about their day.

THE ENCHANTMENT OF THE GAME DRIVE

There is a certain magic when you get onto the game viewer on a morning rife with anticipation for the possibilities ahead. The scent of the veld greets you as the sun breaks through, casting rays of warmth across the earth. Fresh air fills your lungs, your heart beats with excitement, and you feel an undeniable connection to nature. It is about to be another perfect day in Africa.

Expert guides lead the game drives with a personal touch. Before each outing, we are asked what we would like to see, but in the wild, what you encounter is ultimately up to the animals. Still, we were spoilt for choice: herds of elephants, black rhinos, lions and every imaginable species of antelope. From ground squirrels and geckos to black-backed jackals and eland, we had the privilege of spending time with them all.

After a day full of unforgettable wildlife encounters and bush sundowners where we gleefully recounted our experiences, we would head back to the lodge for perfectly prepared meals. Then, we would do it all again the next day.

BREAKING BOUNDARIES: THE SCIENCE BEHIND ANIMAL MIGRATION

A multidisciplinary team of scientists, conservationists and economists, led by Prof. Morgan Hauptfleisch, has been studying wildlife migration patterns in this region. Using satellite trackers on over 70 animals, they have uncovered a startling truth: animals pay no heed to the man-made boundaries we impose on the land.

Prof. Hauptfleisch is hopeful about the role of private reserves like Etosha Heights in preserving vital wildlife corridors. “Here, we’ve established a semi-open system, a model that could pave the way for something much larger,” he explains. “By connecting commercial farms with wildlife- friendly practices, we can significantly expand conservation areas across Namibia.”

The team’s findings underscore a crucial reality: movement is essential for the survival of these species. In Namibia’s harsh, dry landscapes, animals must roam vast distances to find food and water. Artificial boundaries only restrict their natural instincts to explore and migrate. In an era where climate change is rapidly altering ecosystems, the ability for animals to move freely across the land has never been more critical.

LODGES TO LULL YOU INTO THE RHYTHM OF THE WILD

Etosha Heights offers more than just a place to stay; it provides an opportunity to experience the quintessential African safari in a way that feels uniquely yours. Etosha Mountain Lodge and Safarihoek Lodge both boast sweeping 180-degree views of the wilderness, immersing you in the beauty of the vast landscape, where the horizon seems to stretch endlessly.

With its classic bush lodge charm, Etosha Mountain Lodge is a haven of natural wood, earthy tones and understated elegance. Safarihoek Lodge has a more stylish and modern feel, but both establishments invite you to lose yourself in the rhythm of the wild. Whether it is the early morning sight of elephant herds crossing the plain or the tranquil sunset casting golden light over the landscape, the views here are breathtaking.

This is a sanctuary for guests seeking comfort, relaxation and a true connection with nature. The attention to detail is evident in every corner – from the warm, welcoming staff to the meticulously designed rooms that feature extra-large, incredibly comfortable beds, ensuring that every guest feels at home.

“Moments like these remind you that this is wild, untamed Africa, and every day here is an adventure waiting to unfold.”

AN IDEAL DESTINATION FOR FAMILIES

As family travel continues to rise, the lodges have thoughtfully embraced this trend, offering family units designed to make travelling with children not only easier but also more enjoyable. Educational toys in the rooms and comfortable lounge areas ensure that both parents and kids can enjoy their stay. The dedicated staff goes above and beyond to ensure everyone is well taken care of, entertaining the kids so that the adults can relax, soak in the views and reconnect with the natural world around them.

Safarihoek Lodge also boasts a two-level hide at an active waterhole. With one sunken and one raised platform, you are offered unrivalled opportunities to photograph wildlife in their natural habitat. Whether you are watching animals cool off in the midday sun or catching a glimpse of the elusive black rhino, this hide allows guests to observe nature up close and in comfort. Equipped with charging stations for cameras, toilets and a cooler box packed by your guide, you can easily spend many happy hours here. For proof of this, you can watch the live stream of the waterhole activity on their website – something which I have since found myself doing whenever the hustle of city life becomes too much.

But make no mistake, this is still untamed wilderness. When we first arrived and were advised not to wander to our rooms alone, especially after dark, we thought the staff were perhaps being a bit overcautious. That is until our guide showed us two lions roaming surprisingly close to our chalets. Moments like these remind you that this is wild, untamed Africa, and every day here is an adventure waiting to unfold.

THE HEART OF THE STORY

What truly sets Etosha Heights apart goes beyond the exceptional comfort, luxurious accommodations and the warmth of the staff. It is the visionary approach to wildlife movement by allowing animals to roam freely across the land in the knowledge that, even as a private landowner, you do not own the land or its wildlife. You are simply blessed by its presence. This respect for nature is woven into every aspect of the experience.

The reserve is deeply committed to conservation, especially in the protection of rhino populations and other vulnerable species. In partnership with researchers and conservationists, Etosha Heights plays an active role in preserving the health of the ecosystem. By removing fences and allowing wildlife to move unhindered, they are contributing to a larger vision of connected conservation areas in Namibia, creating corridors where animals can roam as the original inhabitants of this land.

ACROSS ENDLESS PLAINS

As you sit there, the warmth of the day still lingering in the air with a hum of quiet energy, it is impossible not to feel a sense of gratitude for this place – a land where nature is revered, and the rhythms of the wild continue uninterrupted.

The endless plains stretch out before you, but it is not just the land you see; it is a living, breathing tapestry of life which you can feel. And as I gaze across the vastness, one thought echoes in my mind: this has been another perfect day in Africa. A day spent immersed in the raw beauty of this wild and untamed land, where I am reminded of how vital our connection to the wild truly is. TN

For more information about Etosha Heights, visit: naturalselection.travel/camps/safarihoek/

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