Welcomed by handshakes and friendly introductions, arriving at Hobatere is like coming home. The journey begins from the moment guests enter the ≠Khoadi-//Hôas conservancy at the main gate, framed by two towers reminiscent of classic stone castles. Barely three kilometres into the conservancy, we spot the first wildlife. Stocky mountain zebras trot across the jeep track, shy to show us their striped pyjamas as they disappear between the mopane forest dotted with honey-coloured boulders.