The Etosha we witness today is not remotely like the wilderness of 1851; it is not even akin to the starting date of 1907 we celebrate. The human footprint, heavily weighted by technology, has changed the face of ‘the great white place’ beyond anything that the stern, uniformed Governor of German South West Africa could imagine when he penned the proclamation of Game Reserve No 2 on 22 March 1907.