The Odyssey discovering special stops alongside the road

The Odyssey

discovering special stops alongside the road

Text   Kirsty Watermeyer   |   Photographs    Kirsty Watermeyer

From the Autumn 2024 issue

The traveller, the seeker, the journeyer. These are travellers who are curious. They go slow, stopping every so often to take in the views. Those who are interested in what they might find along the way. The ones who believe in the odyssey, the eventful or adventurous journey.

For these voyagers, a stop along the way is an integral part of their travels, and what better way to include adventures en route than a stop at a padstal? A little oasis on the horizon to cool you down after a long and dusty road, and to cheer you up while refuelling your soul with stories and your stomach with treats. Every padstal offers something unique – perhaps it is weird, perhaps it is wonderful. Either way, it will always be memorable.

Padstal is an Afrikaans word that means stall next to the road, and is synonymous with the road-tripping culture in Southern Africa. A pitstop at one of these characterful shops is a must on every road-based journey. Each has its own story, is completely independent, trades with local goods and is an absolute highlight for roadside food lovers.

In the hope that your next trip across Namibia will allow you the time to savour the journey, I have collected stories from three unique little roadside shops and stops. I encourage you to add more to this list. Perhaps a conversation with someone who has chosen a life of operating a farm stall on the fringe of nowhere might be more revitalising than you imagined.

CONNY’S COFFEE SHOP

It is hot and dusty on the C24 road in the Hardap Region of Namibia. Plumes of sand fly behind our vehicle as we drive through the tiny community of Klein Aub, 90 kilometres from Rehoboth. It is the kind of town where if you blink while driving through, you might miss it. These are Namibia’s desolate landscapes at their finest. Suddenly a signboard appears, inviting you to stop for coffee at Conny’s Coffee Shop. It is the last place you would expect to find a coffee shop, yet it is an absolute highlight in this barren wilderness. To stop at Conny’s Coffee Shop is to savour coffee at its finest, but the real drawcard here is the delightfully eccentric owner and coffee artist, Günther Martens.

With his large white beard, Günther will brew you an authentic cup of coffee to rival that of even the best baristas. Using a bespoke coffee stand made by his carpenter nephew, Günther elevates the coffee experience to coffee cupping – a sacred ritual for tasting in the coffee world.

Günther has lived an interesting life. He has advocated for a better world as a nonviolent communication teacher, taught meditation classes and offered free Qigong classes in Windhoek. He has been all over the globe, with his coffee training taking place in Hamburg, Germany.

Time slows down here, and Günther admits that this is intentional. “I didn’t want to hustle”, he explains, adding that he wants to be able to give each person he meets his personal attention. “I decided to go to the desert. People told me to go to Solitaire, but it’s too busy there. I didn’t want that life.”

“In 2017 I came here and a month later I was living here. There used to be a copper mine in the area, and then this place used to be a fish and chips shop with a supermarket and petrol station. When the mine closed in 1987, they built the veranda here and called it Conny’s. In 2014 Conny passed away and her children tried to keep it going, but it’s hard living in this environment, especially for young people, it’s not inspiring. For me, I thought that this was cool.”

His stories have us hanging at the edge of our seats while we sip on freshly brewed organic fairtrade Bean There coffee, so delectable that one does not need to mask it with milk or sugar. “If you use good coffee and you prepare it the right way, you can really taste the difference between the different coffees and origins,” Günther explains as his belly laugh fills the air.

This place is slow, interesting and peaceful – truly the essence of Günther. While birds whistle in the background, he shares why he finds this chapter of his life rewarding. “I have a sense of autonomy and I feel at peace. Here, I work with the rhythms of nature. I have to, as I even cook with the sun.” His solar oven is what he uses to prepare hearty meals or the tasty muffins that pair so well with his coffee. “My solar oven uses the sun’s rays to make food. Cooking times depend on the day’s weather. I adapt my meals to the oven, cooking dishes that I can put in and leave alone like a roast leg of lamb or a bobotie,” explains Günther.

“I am happy here. I meet people from all over the world, so my day is full. We have many geologists here because of the environment, so I’m learning about geology. There are rock engravings nearby so now I’m also learning about archaeology. Fascinating people come and stop here. Politicians on their way to holiday, or tour guides with big groups. Some come for lunch, some come just for the coffee, but amazing people come here,” explains Günther, adding, “The people who tend to come here are the adventurous people, the curious ones. They use the opportunity to take a detour. They take life a bit slower and discover the adventures along the journey. They are the ones who find the good surprises.”

Stopping at Conny’s Coffee Shop was a pleasant surprise in a deserted corner of the world, but Günther hopes he can maintain this sense of authenticity. “My hope is to stay small, remain an experience.”

Find Conny’s Coffee Shop two kilometres outside of Klein Aub, or search for it on Google Maps. Call or message in advance if you want to book for lunch: +264 (0)81 360 3400

ROOI DAK PADSTAL

On our journey to the Namib Desert, we decided to skip the well-known stops in search of a more authentic experience, and so we stopped for refreshments at a new padstal at the bottom of Spreetshoogte Pass. From what I have seen online, this place seemed to have the potential to offer the road pitstop experience we were looking for. A giant crash- landed rocket and two astronauts on a tractor make it impossible to miss the entrance. This level of quirkiness promises a riveting stop, and we were not disappointed.

New to the area, the Rooi Dak Padstal opened in September 2023 and offers a variety of unique and proudly Namibian handmade products plus a few engaging and one-of-a-kind attractions beyond the space theme.

The story of the astronauts is that they are Rasputin and Nazelenskyy who decided to reconcile. After successful peace talks, they went for a cruise in an old Soviet rocket which didn’t take them to space, but rather saw them crash landing in a stark terrain near the Namib-Naukluft National Park. Now, as they await Namibian citizenship, they try to earn their cold Windhoek Draughts by looking busy on a tractor at the Rooi Dak Padstal.

This elaborate story is a taste of what awaits at the roadside shop, which is filled with unique narratives. The padstal manager, Lizell Pienaar, can tell a story about almost everything on sale here, such as who made it and how these handmade items are putting the makers’ children through school.

Their signature lemon blondies, which are citrus-based chocolate brownies, are freshly made and unique. We arrived early in the morning and ordered delicious cappuccinos together with our blondies. Perhaps a stop later in the day would make their Caltex petrol pump more enticing. This petrol pump is one of only two in the world, as it does not pour fuel but cold draught beer instead.

While Cheyonne Swartz is busy serving our lemon blondies, which she baked that morning, Lizell tells us more about their range of products. “We want to be one of a kind in Namibia. We have unique items that are all handcrafted and mostly by women, from vellies to hats and T-shirts. We also have food items such as sloppy joes or gemsbok game pies and more. Everything is homemade and authentic. Even our beautiful windmill with its citrus theme was handpainted by a woman. In the future we will make our own beer from our citrus plants.”

Another one-of-a-kind feature is their postcard station. Here visitors are encouraged to write a postcard, then take a photo of the front of their postcard, which would then be sent to the recipient of the postcard via an instant messaging platform, such as WhatsApp or Telegram, along with a location pin. Then you leave the postcard in the postcard drawer in the hope that the recipient will follow the location pin and come to Rooi Dak Padstal to retrieve their message.

Well worth a visit, you can find the Rooi Dak Padstal on the D1275, only 20 kilometres down from the Spreetshoogte Pass on your way to Sossusvlei. +264 (0)83 000 0007

WILHELMSTAL PADSTAL

Namibians know that if you are on your way to the coast, you want to factor in a stop at Wilhelmstal Padstal to stock up on biltong for the road. Rated by online forums as one of the best biltong spots in the country, Wilhelmstal Padstal also boasts excellent droëwors and boerewors, as well as other unique Namibian-made produce.

Owner Janko (JP) Meyer explains, “We took over this padstal in 2017. My thinking was that it would make sense for the farm to sell its own produce directly to the consumer. We have grown since we opened up and added things, for example we now have Slowtown coffee and three trained baristas, so there is always at least one barista on site who knows how to serve your coffee or cappuccino.”

Other items on their shelves that are fast becoming famous include the homemade pasta from Omaruru, known as Die Nudel, or the specialty zucchini salsa by JP’s mom, Ingrid Meyer. “Most of our products are farm produce from the area and we want to continue to support local products. The meat products, though, are from our farm,” explains JP, who grew up making biltong, a personal passion.

The demand for their biltong and droëwors has grown to such an extent that they now offer these items at specialist stores around the country. JP adds, “We now also supply a few shops in Swakop and Windhoek, so if people need their Wilhelmstal products and they are driving on a Saturday when we are closed, they can still stock up. You can find us in Windhoek at Eat@United, in Swakopmund at the Puma Energy Service Station in Kramersdorf or at Farmganics. In Walvis Bay you’ll find us at the Pick n Pay Express Service Station.”

JP notes that there is “a lot of organising” involved with this kind of business, but it is rewarding because of the interesting people they meet every day. “We meet all kinds of people that come from all over Namibia. Sometimes they stay and chat, taking a small rest before driving on.”

Other items to look out for at this padstal include their chilli jam, chutney, rusks, honey and more. After good rains, look out for Omajowas, giant mushrooms sold by people who harvest them off termite mounds, outside the farmstall. TN

For tasty treats, find Wilhelmstal Padstal, on the B2 between Okahandja and Karibib. +264 (0) 81 606 5169

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