November to April is the best time for birding because during this time migrants are present. Some of the standout birding moments were driving into the Kwando Core Area of Bwabwata National Park and seeing endless numbers of Fish Eagles. At some point, we counted them while sitting on the ground within a 20-square-metre area. Another was in Nkasa Rupara National Park where two southern Carmine Bee-eaters caught a ride on the back of a warthog.

If I were a first-time traveller to the region, I would not believe that this area swarms with elephants during the dry season. Having migrated mostly to Botswana for the season the only trace I saw of the gentle giants was old droppings.

Not deterred, it was fun to identify the differences between puku, lechwe and reedbuck. On an early morning game drive we watched a lechwe cross the water at the Horseshoe bend of the Kwando. We quickly reached for our binoculars when we noticed a submarine-like shape following the lechwe now swimming at double speed. To our surprise, as soon as the antelope made it to dry land, a snapping crocodile jaw broke through the water in a last-ditch but futile attempt to catch breakfast.

While we didn’t see any big cats, we had the privilege of watching African wild dogs bathe and chase each other through a muddy pool. It was ten minutes of pure joy for all of us as we watched these dangerous predators goofing around like puppies.

Even during the wet season, most areas are accessible and no expert driving skills are needed. When planning your next trip there, don’t be scared to go against what is recommended – you might just see something special. TN