Where the Wild Things Waddle

WHERE THE

WILD THINGS WADDLE

Sailing to Halifax Island

As the first light of dawn stretched over the Lüderitz Waterfront, we gathered at the jetty, greeted by the crisp morning air and the promise of adventure. The crew of Penguin Catamaran Tours—Skipper Christo and deckhand Eslon—welcomed us aboard with warm smiles, their enthusiasm setting the tone for what would be an unforgettable journey. Along with our warm welcome, we each received a branded buff, a thoughtful memento. A few other guests joined us, and after a quick safety briefing, we pulled on our jackets against the brisk sea breeze. The Namibian flag fluttered proudly on the catamaran, a vibrant splash of colour against the soft morning sky.

Text   Suné van Wyk   |   Photographs  Suné van Wyk

From the Autumn 2025 issue

With a steady hum, the engines came to life, and we drifted away from the harbour, Lüderitz slowly shrinking into the horizon. Just as we settled into the gentle rhythm of the waves, the unexpected happened—a whale! A majestic, elusive silhouette breaking the surface of the water. It wasn’t the typical season for whale sightings, but that didn’t stop Christo from making the moment last. Carefully, he adjusted course, keeping a respectful distance while ensuring we had the best possible view, following the whale for as long as it allowed before it disappeared into the deep.

As we continued, Eslon and Christo painted the seascape with stories—tales of Lüderitz’s history, its explorers, and the rich marine life that called these waters home. Their knowledge made the journey all the more immersive, giving life to the sights around us.

We approached Diaz Point, where, in 1488, Portuguese explorer Bartolomeu Dias planted his stone cross, a symbol of early European voyages to the southern African coast. While the original cross has long since succumbed to time, a replica now stands in its place, keeping the story alive. Nearby, a striking red-and-white lighthouse has stood watch over the coastline since 1915. Not far from this historical landmark, we came upon a rocky outcrop teeming with Cape fur seals, sprawled lazily in the faintly glowing sunlight, their dark coats contrasting against the greenish-yellow moss clinging to the rock. Below them, the waves crashed in rhythmic bursts, the morning light playing over the frothy surf.

Further out, the ocean stretched vast and blue, and as we neared Halifax Island, the island, a protected breeding ground for African penguins, appeared like a rugged sanctuary rising from the water. From the hammock-like nets, we watched as the penguins waddled across the terrain, their black-and-white figures standing out starkly against the weathered cliffs. Once a guano mining site, the remnants of abandoned buildings dotted the island—a silent reminder of its past, now reclaimed by nature as penguin nesting sites. Flamingos, seagulls, and cormorants added to the avian symphony, each species carving out its own place in this unique ecosystem.

“Their energy was contagious, and we found ourselves overwhelmed with excitement and awe, watching in disbelief as they raced alongside us, showing off their speed and agility.”

As we took in the view, the crew surprised us with hot chocolate, served in hand-decorated mugs adorned with delightful penguin illustrations. It was, without exaggeration, the best hot chocolate we had ever tasted—rich, velvety, and warm enough to chase away the Atlantic chill. Sipping it while gazing at the penguins before us felt like the perfect culmination of the experience.

On the way back, Heaviside’s dolphins joined us, effortlessly keeping pace with the catamaran, riding its waves and darting playfully beneath the hull. Their energy was contagious, and we found ourselves overwhelmed with excitement and awe, watching in disbelief as they raced alongside us, showing off their speed and agility.

As Lüderitz came back into view, we sailed past Shark Island, its bold red building standing out as a final landmark before our return. Upon docking, Christo and Eslon helped us ashore, their hospitality unwavering to the very end. With one last wave from the crew, we stepped off the boat, hearts full, already longing for the next adventure upon Namibia’s untamed waters. TN

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