As I settle into the plush comforts of our suite at Little Ongava, my eyes explore all the little luxuries on offer in this mountain-top villa with its never-ending views stretching out towards the southern horizon. My seat swivels around, allowing me to take in both the exterior and interior views. My husband’s attention is fixed on the iPad that came with the suite, tuned in to the live stream of the waterhole at the foot of the mountain. He will spend the next few days with the device in hand, poised for those rare moments where we are not offered a direct view of the reserve’s prolific wildlife or out on a drive. Absolutely absorbed by the wild wonders on offer. On the expansive canopy bed, a delicate piece of paper catches my eye. Left for us during turn-down service, it carries a San fable, a bedtime story that tells the tale of how, according to ancient Bushman lore, Flame and Rain created the earth. This touch of local folklore is the first hint that my stay here will be an adventure woven with luxury and the wild spirit of Namibia, but with a very personal touch that supersedes most other experiences.

The crown jewel of Ongava Game Reserve, Little Ongava is perched atop an outcrop, offering a breathtaking panorama of the vast plains, bushland and mountains that comprise the 30,000-hectare reserve. To the north, Etosha National Park shares a substantial stretch of border with Ongava, creating a seamless expanse of protected wilderness. This private sanctuary is not just a destination; it is a journey into the heart of nature’s grandeur, meticulously preserved through Ongava’s commitment to conservation. “Nature first” is their mantra, and it is certainly woven into the fabric of their being.

“Good morning, good morning!”
“Have a lovely morning, all!”

The reserve’s guides greet the day and each other with cheerful messages over the game viewer radios, their warmth and personality cutting through the early morning chill. The crisp air invigorates my senses. Despite my usual reluctance to embrace the morning (read: not a morning person), I find myself energised and eager to explore as the haze of dawn gives way to the warm hue of the red sun ascending from the east. This is where the adventure truly begins – each morning a new promise of the unexpected.

As the sun rises, the landscape comes alive. Wings and feathers rustle in treetops and bushes. Long giraffe necks are stretched out and herds of impala start to explore the mopane bushland in search of breakfast nibbles. The Catophractes shrubs shimmer in the morning light, dusted with the white powder characteristic of this region. An aardwolf, elusive and shy, offers a fleeting glimpse before retreating to its burrow. This nocturnal creature, rarely seen, adds a touch of mystery and excitement to the morning. Such a rare sighting is like a shot of adrenaline to the nature enthusiast’s system.

A call over the radio stirs further excitement among the guides – onkoshi have been spotted. Our game drive is soon filled with the awe-inspiring sights of elephant roadblocks and lions lounging lazily, their bellies full from the night’s feast. The lions’ bright yellow eyes pierce through the camera viewfinder, offering a glimpse into the wild soul of Ongava. At a muddy pool, we find the reserve’s eponymous mammal, his front horn coated in thick mud as he cleans and sharpens it on a fallen tree trunk. This is luxury in the wilderness – not just the comfort of the camp but the richness of the experiences it offers.

Back at the lodge, Rüppell’s Parrots sing in the tree outside our suite before swooping down to the overflowing edge of our private infinity pool for a drink. Their grey plumage with that stark interruption of bright yellow feathers on the wing reflects in the clear water. The equally clear winter sky overhead mirrors the moment perfectly. Here, the adventure is in the detail, each moment a blend of the serenity and thrill of the wild.

As night falls, a Pearl-spotted Owlet perches outside our front door, its eyes darting in search of prey. A tiny tree squirrel scampers along the lodge’s winding walkway and then up through the branches of a neighbouring tree, embodying the charm and whimsy of Little Ongava. This seamless blend of comfort and untamed nature is the essence of the lodge’s allure.

The lodge itself feels like a luxurious home away from home. Its blend of colonial safari camp aesthetics and modern comforts creates an inviting atmosphere. There is nothing pretentious here – just an understated elegance that makes you feel instantly at ease. It is like sinking into a warm clawfoot tub, indulgent and beautifully settled. The staff’s genuine warmth, skill and hospitality make every guest feel special. This is luxury without pretence, adventure without the rough edges.

Our seven-course dinner on the main deck, under a starlit sky, is a gastronomic journey. The waterhole below, illuminated for evening visitors, is a stage for a myriad of creatures, among them black rhinos and hyenas. The dining, too, is an opulent adventure, where every course is a discovery and every glance up reveals the infinite expanse of the night sky.

Little Ongava is a place where the setting emphasises the surrounding wilderness. Where every detail is designed to enhance your visit and remind you that nature truly comes first here, from the lofty setting and vast views to the incredible staff and focus on giving you an authentic and enriching experience. The adventure lies not just in the game drives, walking safaris, spa indulgences, national park excursions or waterhole wildlife encounters on offer, but in the seamless integration of opulence and nature. Ongava’s story, 30 years in the making, reminds us that wilderness is a luxury we cannot afford to take for granted. TN