Peace, tranquillity, absolute silence and wide-open spaces are becoming increasingly rare commodities. If there is one place in Namibia where you can enjoy all of this, it is Wüstenquell Lodge, which is open to visitors again after it was closed for many years.
Text Willie Olivier | Photographs Willie Olivier
From the Spring 2024 issue
Bordering on the Namib-Naukluft Park to the south, the lodge is situated on the historic 6,000-hectare Modderfontein farm. It owes its name (meaning “mud fountain”) to the six springs which once surfaced in the area. Sadly, only one spring is still active – the result of prolonged droughts and abstraction of water by mines.
One of Wüstenquell’s main attractions is its fascinating geology, which is dominated by gravel plains that are punctuated by granite outcrops. Centuries of erosion by wind, extreme temperatures, fog drifting inland and the crystallisation of salt concentrates that dislodge tiny rock fragments have created the most bizarre natural rock sculptures.
As the name suggests, Eagle Rock resembles an eagle with its wings spread out, while another rock formation has been sculpted into the profile of an elephant. You could come across an unexpected “hippopotamus” standing right in front of you, or the profile of a cat appearing in the distance. The centre of some rocks has been eroded completely, creating a window to the landscape beyond.
The honeycomb formations are equally fascinating. These cavities of various sizes are created by the disintegration of weaker areas of rock under the protective layers of the hard crusts. As time goes by, the small cavities continue to enlarge, a process which is accelerated by the sandblasting of the winds.
Also punctuating the landscape are smooth granite outcrops. Another process, known as onion-skin weathering, can be observed at these outcrops. As a result of the fluctuation of temperatures between the warm outer rock layer and the cooler rock underneath, as well as pressure release, layers of granite peel off – a process also referred to as exfoliation.
A cavern at one of the granite outcrops is a reminder of the San (generally also referred to as Bushmen) who once made it their home. They used one of the rock surfaces as a natural canvas to depict the trance visions of a shaman (medicine man). The rock paintings can only be viewed on a guided rock formation tour to ensure that they are not tampered with.
Stargazing is another attraction at Wüstenquell. Situated far away from the bright lights of urban areas, the clear night skies offer the perfect opportunity for those fascinated by astronomy, or just the beauty of the stars.
Tracks across the plains betray the presence of Hartmann’s mountain zebra, springbok, gemsbok and ostriches. They tend to be skittish, only moving about at night, and often migrate to other areas if there has been little or no local rain, or if the grazing has been depleted. After good rains, however, the plains are quickly transformed into waving grasslands. Numerous holes of the elusive aardvark provide a clue of this nocturnal species’ whereabouts, while the Cape fox has also been recorded in the area.
You might even hear the howling of a black-backed jackal every once in a while.
However, the Namib is more renowned for its rich diversity of reptiles, beetles, spiders and other lesser creatures. They have adapted in unique ways to survive in this inhospitable desert environment.
Birdlife is not prolific in this desolate area, but you could tick off the biggest of them all, the ostrich, or you might just hear the toad-like croaking duet of the Rüppell’s Korhaan. The Bokmakierie, named after its onomatopoeic call, is another species that can easily be identified by its distinctive vocalisation, while the Tractrac Chat and Pale-winged Starling are among the other species recorded here.
Clumps of the smelly shepherd’s bush (Boscia foetida) dominate the sparsely vegetated gravel plains. Its common names refer to the unpleasant smell produced by its small, green-yellow flowers. Also conspicuous on the plains are clumps of the Damara euphorbia (Euphorbia damarana), while the candelabra euphorbia (Euphorbia virosa) is found mainly on the slopes of rocky hills.
Large trees, such as the camel thorn (Vachellia erioloba) and scrawny wild ebony (Euclea pseudebenus) trees are restricted to river washes. The only evergreen tree is the hardy mustard bush (Salvadora persica) which is usually found in dry river washes and on riverbanks.
A few kilometres before reaching the gate to the lodge, you will pass the historic Jakkalswater farm which was one of the stations on the Staatsbahn (state railway line). Construction of the railway line between Swakopmund and Windhoek started in September 1897 and reached Jakkalswater in April 1899. Despite its name, the water at Jakkalswater was not suitable for the boilers of the locomotives and a 7.5-kilometre rail link was built to Modderfontein where “soft” water could be obtained from a well.
The 98-kilometre journey from Swakopmund to Jakkalswater, which also had a post office, took a good six to seven hours and on arrival the passengers enjoyed lunch at the railway station before continuing their journey. The line to Windhoek was opened in 1902 but closed again in 1909 when the German administration took over the OMEG line which ran parallel to the Staatsbahn for 145 kilometres. Although there is no evidence of the railway line today, the well at Modderfontein and the stone walls of a building are reminders of the pioneering days of the country’s railway history.
To protect the fragile environment, self-drives are not permitted. Guests can, however, set off on a guided three-hour rock formation tour or a two-hour sunset drive during which they will enjoy sundowners from the summit of one of the rock outcrops. By far the best way to experience Wüstenquell, though, is on foot and there are plans to conduct three fully catered three-day slackpacking trails in 2025. Other activities in the planning stages are a self-guided interpretive trail and a mountain bike trail.
Wüstenquell is operated by Whipps Wilderness Safaris, a family-run business. Items found on the farm have been repurposed and turned into furniture for the rooms, creating a less-is-more feeling. The main lodge of this mid-range priced establishment has five en-suite rooms with air-conditioning (very much welcome on a hot summer’s day), a lovely shaded terrace with expansive views of the Langer Heinrich Mountain, which forms an impressive backdrop in the south, a restaurant and bar. Guests can order breakfast (continental or a hot), with fresh home-baked bread, while the lunch menu features a choice of light meals. The three-course dinner changes daily.
Accommodation is also available at the Rondavel – a fully equipped self-catering unit for four people behind the main lodge. The Zebra Outpost, a fully equipped self-catering unit for four people is situated a few kilometres from the main lodge at Modderfontein. There are also two secluded campsites for those who prefer sleeping under the stars.
If you are planning a visit to Wüstenquell during the winter months, be warned: early morning and overnight temperatures can be bitterly cold, so remember to pack enough warm clothing.
With a maximum of ten guests in the rooms at the main lodge, guests will enjoy the feeling of being far away from the busyness of civilisation. TN